Review: Artisan

So the customer uniform is a sleek mix of grey, black, gold, generally swanky attire and as usual I'm in my plaid shirt.

Perhaps this is less of a student hangout and more of an I-have-a-career-and-money-to-spend kinda deal. WHICH IS FINE. Just new for me, and not quite right for me. However, this doesn't rule out the possibility of students fitting in here. It's more of a date location or a sophisticated drinks with the girls thing.

Photo: Artisan

It's located in Spinningfields, so definitely fits in with the whole vibe around that area - post-work drinks, living for the weekend, business people letting their hair down after work??

If you know Spinningfields you'll know what I mean.

Atmosphere aside, I am here to talk about the food, and the food I shall talk about:

I'd had a look at the website prior to my visit, and as it claims that 'fire is at the literal heart of Artisan; handmade, rustic dishes served straight from the flames.' I veered towards dishes that would hopefully show off the use of the acclaimed wood oven. To start we ordered Mussels Marinière: 'mussels baked in bread'. This was quite an exciting starter, as it arrived in a cast-iron dish behatted with a warm and doughy flatbread. I liked this as a sharing plate, the presentation made it feel slightly special and upmarket, although the simple garlic cream sauce was nothing I hadn't tried before. Even so, the dish was well executed and ideal for a light sharing starter.

Thank goodness for high exposure

 From scouring the menu in advance I'd had my eye on the skillet of smoked salmon, poached eggs, green vegetables, hollandaise and crushed potatoes. This is the kind of thing I would make for myself at home so I was interested to see how others approached it. Its manifestation was a little underwhelming. I'd imagined the skillet to be of a similar to size to the mussels' cradle, with Jamie Oliver-style pan fried and crushed potatoes - crispy and soft. (As in the ones from 30 minute meals, they're 'squashed' potatoes but potato potato). However, they were crushed into more of a mash, and a mush. The whole thing was a bit of a mush really due to the amount of oil and liquid going on. Smoked salmon is soft and moist, so coupled with a soft poached egg, mashed potatoes and hollandaise sauce, the dish leaves you desperately savouring the crunchier pieces of broccoli just to balance your mouthful. I also feel that the addition of the hollandaise with the egg made this reminiscent of a breakfast; swap the veg for an English muffin and it's basically eggs benedict.

I think this dish could work with more rigid carbohydrates and without the rich sauce. At £11.50, it also feels a little steep for something that can be compared with a morning meal.

A further opportunity to sample the wood-fired offerings, we opted for the mushroom pizza. Topped with rosemary, thyme and truffle oil, this was an authentic version of an Italian classic. The thin, soft yet crisp base was perfect for folding into quarters to make each slice into a calzone (it's the way to eat fresh pizza). My only criticism is perhaps it's over-authenticity - it really felt like we were sat outside the Colosseum - in that it was over a tenner for a reasonably small and scarcely topped pizza.

Satisfied, but not quite full up (I wonder whether this is the purpose of the serving sizes), we chose from the dessert menu. It was no contest to choose a winner as chocolate fondant took place on the list, a personal favourite. With fond memories of this dessert from a very special meal with my Mother in Casa Marieta, Girona, I think perhaps my hopes were too high. The pudding was hot and gooey with unarguably good vanilla ice cream, but it lacked that rich depth of cocoa that one desires from a chocolate dessert.

This being said, the service was faultless and Artisan did demonstrate everything their menu maintains to be. However, with the dim lighting not bright enough to capture the food *sob* and clubby music at a similar volume to the venue its designed for, I get the feeling that Artisan's philosophy is not all about the food. As the bitter-from-the-bill couple next to us aptly remarked, "you're paying for the ambience".

Artisan strikes me as the place you should go to with people that you don't know very well: the volume ensures there'll be no awkward silences, and the elaborate cocktail menu is a great conversation starter in more ways than one.

People want to show off that they've been there, take an insta and tag it. There's even a 'bitchin' lounge' otherwise known as photo opportunity, as well as a booth to print snaps of you and your mates looking all pretty. Personal comments aside, the restaurant was buzzing and every table booked, people were enjoying themselves - Artisan is doing it just right for their demographic and I'm not recommending they change. 

Artisan 
Avenue North,
18-22 Bridge Street, 
Manchester
http://www.artisan.uk.com/

Peanut Butter Pad Thai

I'm not going to pretend that this is even close to the traditional form of Pad Thai, because I've seen the youtube comments towards those professing to create the dish, and it seems to be a controversial subject.

For those who have no opinion, let alone awareness of the delicacy, wikipedia declares that Pad Thai is a combination of rice noodles, shrimp and tofu stir-fried in tamarind, egg, beansprouts and chopped peanuts.

My version contains the key ingredients of rice noodles (vermicelli) and egg, but I have swapped the seafood for chicken and added a few extra things I had in the fridge.

Authentic or not, it worked out well and the recipe was worth remembering. As usual the ingredients are interchangeable and open to interpretation, I'd love to hear about your attempts!

Serves 2:

1.Noodles
150g Rice Noodles

Add nest to bowl of boiling water, set aside

2.Sauce
60 ml fish sauce
60 ml toasted sesame oil
1 tbsp tamarind paste
3 splashes soy sauce
Cap full cider vinegar
1 tsp each minced garlic, ginger, chilli
Pinch hot chilli powder
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp peanut butter

Add all ingredients to mug, microwave for 20 secs to melt PB, stir and set aside.

3.Chicken
Splash toasted sesame oil
1/2 chicken breast, thinly sliced
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp minced chilli
1/2 tsp ground ginger
Few mills black pepper
2 eggs

Bring wok to high heat with oil and add chicken and seasonings. Fry until white and push to side of the wok. Crack eggs into center and let cook for around one minute. Scramble for another minute and add:

4.Veg
1/4 savoy cabbage, shredded
8 baby button mushrooms, halved
1 carrot, julienned or chopped thinly
1/2 chopped romaine lettuce
Small handful pumpkin seeds

Continue to fry in wok for around 5 mins until veg is softened but not mushy. Keep eggs to the side to prevent overcooking.

5.Garnish

Add sauce to wok and heat for around 2 mins. Serve into bowls with extra black pepper, a pinch of fresh coriander and a wedge of lime.


I've split the steps and ingredients up like this to make the dish look less intimidating, As a long list this looks a bit daunting but it really is simple and comes together in less than around half an hour, including chopping time. For an easy-to-refer-to infographic, here is the photo of my plan for this post:

Umami: The Fifth Taste

To finally incorporate a little of my degree - the Linguistics part - into this blog, I'll give you the etymology of the Japanese loanword that takes both the title of this post and the name of the restaurant to follow. 'Umami', pronounced /uːˈmaːmi/ (bonus phonology revision) translates as a 'pleasant savoury taste'. Now included with the four classic taste dimensions: sweet; salty; bitter and sour, it can be recognized largely in Japanese cuisine often found in the additive known as MSG. This flavour is associated with a salty, savoury taste which is why its inclusion in the basic list was in dispute. However, the distinction from the 'salty' category can be made due to the way that Umami can be created through combinations of savoury foods put together. Think Remi with his cheese and strawberry in Ratatouille.

The climax

Umami means adding the intense flavour that you need in order to enjoy your meal to the full extent. Parmesan on spaghetti Bolognese. The little bit of burnt on your roast potatoes. Mustard on ham. Fish and chips with tartar sauce. Soy sauce on sushi?

Umami! You've got it!

It's also the name of a lovely underground noodle bar on Oxford Road (the Manchester version). Having visited on five occasions without a single disappointment, I thought a review of my fifth taste was in order.

On descending the restaurant's steps I first expected to be greeted with a neon-lit counter, hectic atmosphere and claustrophobic but versatile seating - a sort of cross between Archie's Milkshakes and Yo!Sushi. This presumption was only due to a glance at the offer of a £5.95 lunch deal and the coloured sign modestly pointing to 'noodle bar'. What in fact lives at the bottom of those stairs is a sophisticated and authentic Japanese restaurant that is a great meeting place for lunch or dinner, student or superior.

Shiny rectangular wooden tables stand at perfect elbow-resting height, with matching benches and similarly sized Japanese artwork adorning the right wall. Another wall gives home to the half-open kitchen with a tall bar for freshly made orders to wait. Those orders don't wait long as staff are attentive and efficient, in fitting with the place's clean and functional look. Despite the sleek design, the restaurant still holds just the right amount of character, being underground and spacious without feeling confined or empty.

The food itself is similarly simple without being boring. Mostly centred around noodles in various sizes with differing broths and flavourings, the menu also offers fried rice dishes and an appetizing selection of small plates or starters.

Vegetable salad

Gyoza dumplings

From the vast amount that I have tried, I would particularly recommend the crispy salt & pepper tofu - perfect for first time tofu-triers, or those who've had bad experiences with the spongy stuff tasting like well, sponge. The king prawn gyoza dumplings are equally satisfying and when dipped in the sweet sauce really create that UMAMI flavour (how fun learning can be!)

Char siu ramen

Monk's broth

The udon and ramen soups are honestly much of a muchness for me, which doesn't mean to say they are not good. The combination of noodle and broth makes a refreshing lunch and a spicy one is perfect for a cold winter day. Offerings on the lunch menu are a careful selection of the best sellers that the chefs are readily prepared to make in a short time,  it seems  encouraged during this time as a means of practicality for the staff. This means that you're not getting a pared down version of something from the full list, so it's a win-win situation.

Vegetable tempura

The speed of service here means I'll normally go for lunch so I can spend more time doing nothing quickly get back to the library. However, on occasions where I've dined in the evening it has also been a lovely choice, always positively commented upon by the friends I have taken. Although one night we gave in to the temptation of Japanese beer Asahi, a regret after examining the receipt to find it was £3.60 a bottle. I suppose that's just how these restaurants make their money, but as a student it's unlikely that I'd opt to have a drink there again.

Noodle party

To conclude, I'd describe Umami as an up-market and less commercial Wagamamas that guarantees a fulfilling meal. It won't blow your tastebuds, but it'll pleasure them.

Umami
Japanese Sushi Noodle Bar Restaurant
147/153 Oxford Road 
Manchester
M1 1EE
http://www.umami.cc/

Note: you may notice the mention of sushi in the address above, this is something I'm yet to try here but would love to hear any feedback from those who have!

How to make life worth getting up for.

Don't despair of the title, this is still a food blog. If you're like me, which I suppose most people are in this aspect of life, you hate the mornings. You really struggle to convince your brain that there is any reason worthwhile enough to remove yourself from the warmth and bliss of the duvet cave. A lecture? No. A meeting? Nope. An exam? Definitely not.

In the sleep-addled mind of the newly woken, it is near impossible to evaluate the importance of any oncoming activity.

Trying to comprehend a mobile version of yourself, outside of the house and fully involved in some kind of task seems absurd and ever-distant. But the thought of food, food that doesn't take long to prepare, food that is tasty and exciting - that promise of instant gratification is the best way to get out of bed. Thus why I value the importance of having a delicious breakfast.

Perfect porridge base:

Oats

Water

Milk

For one serving, I put 3 heaped tablespoons of porridge oats into a saucepan and cover with water about 2cm over where the porridge lies. I don't have a specific measurement for the liquid because I do it by eye every time and it depends on personal preference. I like mine creamy but I almost treat the porridge like a risotto - letting the oats absorb and adding more liquid as I go along.

It's normal to do everything slowly in the morning, which is why this porridge takes around 10-20 minutes to make. Obviously it is possible to make it faster simply by adding less liquid and keeping the heat on high with a watchful eye. But I like to take my time and ensure the texture is really soft and as one mouth perfectly requested: 'tasting as little like oats as possible'.

First, bring the mixture to the boil and add water or milk as necessary. I use skimmed and find that the texture is still perfectly creamy, despite what others may insist on. Once boiled, turn the heat right down and let the porridge cook, almost reducing it. It's ready to eat as soon as the liquid is absorbed, but if you have the time, it's preferable to heat the porridge on low for around 15 minutes - frequently adding more liquid to maintain the consistency. I tend to use about half and half water and milk.

The part worth getting up for - the add-ins:

Cocoa, dark chocolate and chopped walnuts

Banana, syrup and cinnamon

Mixed nuts and syrup

Seed, raisin and banana

These are just a few staples, but the combinations are endless. Another favourite of mine is to mash a whole banana, add after the boiling stage with a generous spoonful of peanut butter and melt. I love porridge because it's warming, filling, and a lot healthier than packaged breakfasts. Please share any unlikely combinations in the comments below!

Warm Cinnamon Monkey Bread with Rum Spiked Frosting

I don't really like tradition.

'We have to have sprouts', 'We can't have Yorkshires', 'We have to have Christmas pudding'.

Why? Christmas is supposed to be one of the most enjoyable days of the year, why set any restrictions? With regards to Christmas food, my view is that if you want it, have it. 

I'm not saying I'm a tradition anarchist who eats spaghetti and garlic bread on December 25th, but there's nothing wrong with those who do. If I fancied it, I would. That's why this year I decided to replace the tradition of eating aged, brandy-soaked dried fruit (otherwise known as Christmas pud) with a similarly-spiced hot and sugary baked dough.

Behold the Monkey Bread:

It's like one giant sweet cream-cheese covered cinnamon roll doughnut. 

Christmas has passed, but in lieu of following tradition, why not make this dessert all year round?

The dough:                                                                                        

4 tsps yeast (from a packet)                                                                

1/2 cup warm water                                                                           

2 tbsps sugar (any)                                                                              

2 tbsps salted butter                                                                            

1 large egg                                                                                          

1 tsp salt

2½ - 3 cups plain flour

Sugar topping:

2½ tbsps white sugar
1 level tbsp ground cinnamon
6 tbsps salted butter, melted
2½ tbsps brown sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract

Combine the first 3 ingredients and whisk til combined. Leave to sit for 5 minutes until yeast has activated and the top is slightly frothy. Add the butter, egg, salt and gradually begin adding the flour, until the dough comes together and is manageable by hand. Work onto a floured surface and knead for around 5 minutes. Roll into a ball and place into a large bowl (the one you used for mixing is fine) and cover loosely with a tea towel. Leave in a warm-room temperature place for around 2 hours, or until doubled in size. When the dough is ready, turn out onto surface and cut into around 34 pieces. Mix the dry ingredients of the sugar topping in a bowl. Roll the individual dough pieces into the sugar mixture and arrange into a greased round cake tin. If you have a ring mould, excellent! Use it. I sadly did not but managed to DIY one by use of a small ceramic jug.

Any thin, round oven-safe object should work for this, just place it in the middle of your greased cake tin (and grease the object too). Once this is set up you can arrange the dough balls around the shape. Leave to rise in this position for another hour, half an hour through the waiting time is a good time to preheat the oven to 200ºC. Just before baking, mix the remaining ingredients from the sugar topping and pour over the balls.

Bake the dough for around half an hour, or until risen and nicely browned. Leave to cool for 10 minutes then turn onto a plate, then back on to another plate so the bottom is the side that was touching the cake tin.

Frosting:

3½ tbsps butter

4 tbsps cream cheese

3 tbsps icing sugar

1 tbsp alcohol of choice (I used Captain Morgan's Spiced)

1 tsp syrup (maple or golden)

Melt the butter and cream cheese in a small bowl in the microwave, Stir and add the remaining ingredients until smooth. Transfer to a small jug and drizzle over the bread. Use the leftovers for extra moisture when serving. 

Best enjoyed warm with a mug of coffee.

Without a doubt the best curry I've ever made.

Completely stolen from BBC Good Food.

I normally gravitate away from home-cooked curry and towards the take-away variety, for the well known reason that it's just not the same. While creation in a saucepan from a spoonful of paste, chopped vegetables and diced chicken is time-efficient, flavours are generally disappointing. On noticing my purchase of a box of Taste the Difference chicken thighs & drumsticks (£1.19 from £4.75 in the reduced section), my housemate shared this recipe with me for which, due to our impressive spice rack, I only needed a few extra items. 

Action shot

 Marinade:

• 2 chicken thighs cut into two (or 4 and omit drumsticks)
• 2 chicken drumsticks
• 120g yoghurt
• 2 tbsp ginger and garlic paste
• 1½ tsp salt
• 1 lemon, juice only
• 3 tsp red chilli powder
• 1 tbsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp garam masala
• drizzle of oil

Oven 200ºC. Make cuts in the chicken pieces with a corrugated knife to help the marinade absorb. Mix the remaining ingredients in a bowl then pour over the chicken in a dish lined with foil, making sure each piece is coated. Chill in the fridge for 10 minutes. Roast the chicken for around 15 minutes, turning halfway to ensure even browning. The chicken does not need to be fully cooked as it will be added to the sauce later. Set aside and keep the juices. 

 

Sauce:

• 2 tins plum tomatoes
• 5cm/2in piece fresh root ginger, peeled, half crushed and half finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp red chilli powder
• 80g butter, diced
• 2 green chillies, slit lengthways (I used a smallish one and a large green birdseye)
• 3 tbsp coconut cream/single cream (optional)
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 tsp fenugreek
• ½ tsp garam masala
• salt and pepper
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander, to garnish
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Place the tomatoes in a pan with 125ml/4fl oz water, the crushed ginger, garlic, cardamom and bay leaf. Simmer until just before the boil and blend with a hand blender in the pan. Add the chilli powder and simmer for 12-15 minutes. It should slowly begin to thicken. When the sauce turns glossy, add the chicken pieces and the cooking juices. Pour in a cup of water and simmer for about 3-5 minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the sauce returns to its original glossy consistency. Slowly whisk in the butter, a couple of pieces at a time, and simmer for 6-8 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is beginning to acquire a glaze. Add the chopped ginger, green chillies and cream and simmer for a minute or two longer, taking care that the sauce doesn't split. Stir in the salt, fenugreek leaves and garam masala, then check the seasoning. 

Serve on a bed of basmati rice (100g per person) and garnish with fresh coriander. Excitedly run  around the kitchen exclaiming 'it looks like a REAL curry!'

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Hard work? There's just no knead.

Another post, another bread recipe. Inspired by a blog favourite of mine Budget Bytes, I prepared this unbelievably easy focaccia in time for a dinner party turned booze-up at fellow food enthusiast Hester's apartment. The guests were impressed.

I felt almost embarrassed to take compliments for something that was so simple to make, but not so embarrassed that I didn't glowingly reply 'it was nothing'. (It really was.)

Not out of place at a gourmet meal

Ingredients:

120g wholewheat bread flour

360g white bread flour

1/2 teaspoon instant yeast

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

480ml water

3 tablespoons olive oil (the better the quality, the better the bread)

Sprinkling of herbs - salt & rosemary is a classic combination, or basil and garlic

Method:

Add all of the dry ingredients to a large bowl and stir. Add the water and stir gently with a spoon until the mixture is combined and in a sticky ball. Cover loosely with a tea towel and let sit overnight/about 14 hours.

When you're around 2 hours before needing the dough to be ready, prepare a tin with oiled greaseproof paper or foil and and pour the dough onto the sheet. Stretch to the edges of the tin and let sit for another hour. Poke dimples in the dough and drizzle with extra olive oil, don't worry about adding too much. Sprinkle with extra herbs and salt. 

With the oven preheated to 200°C, place a sheet of foil over the mixture and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for a further 20 minutes, or until brown.

 Wait until cooled to slice or enjoy hot.

If you're worried about cooking times or leaving the dough for too long, you could always mix the dry ingredients before you go to bed and add the water when you get up in the morning. Minimum time and effort involved, and lovely risen dough for when you get home.

Prep time: Around 16 hours (the majority of which you will be sleeping for)

Hands-on time: 20 minutes

Oven time: 40 minutes


Extra step-by-step photos: